To capture the essence of Hyderabad, the city of nawabs, take a tour of the Charminar, an iconic representation of all things Nizam.
Nestled modestly in the heart of the old city, the grand and majestic structure stands like a sentinel around which civilization has mushroomed, blending the historic monument into the surrounding cityscape.
In the time that a recurring plague wreaked havoc amongst his subjects, the Sultan of Hyderabad, Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah turned to the Highest Power. He vowed that should the epidemic end he would build a mosque at the very place that he sat and prayed. Thus, the Charminar was built in 1591 to commemorate the end of the tragedy and became a harbinger of happier times. The grime and crowd of the surroundings have not been able to diminish its divine aura. Besides the ‘Four Towers’, a pureness of spirit also emanates from the adjacent Mecca Masjid. One of the oldest mosques in the city, it is believed to have been constructed with bricks made from the soil of Mecca.
Bangles in the By-lanes
Designer brands and chic accessories maybe ruling the fashion charts but they cannot hold a torch to the colorful ‘laad’ or lacquer bangles studded with precious and semiprecious stones that turn the historic Choodi Bazaar (Laad Bazaar) into a blingy kaleidoscope. Syed Maksood, a jewellery shop owner in the area says, “Glass bangles are imported from Faridabad and UP but the lac bangles are handcrafted in the karkhanas (factories) of the city. It takes around three hours and requires 6–7 people to make a single bangle.”
Further down the bazaar, shops selling black metal statues and decor items cast their spell on passers-by. These intricate objets d’art are available in every shape and size, and make a perfect gift or souvenir; however, the ‘black’ magic is dwindling according to Mustafa, an idol maker. “With plastic made statues and home décor items from China gaining popularity and with rising prices of raw materials, it has become difficult for us to have a stable ground in the market.”
‘City of Pearls’- the moniker for Hyderabad could not be more ironic. “Hyderabadi pearls are actually not produced in India – they are imported from China, Japan, Taiwan, Australia and the US. It is China that dominates the pearl market. After being imported, these pearls are drilled in different parts of Andhra Pradesh. The local artisans pierce and string the pearls,” informs Sudarshan, a pearl dealer in Laad Bazaar. Right from the era of the Nizams, pearls have been brought into the city from the neighbouring island of Sri Lanka and from the Gulf countries. Yet the charm of the city adds that dash of something indefinable to these round globules that makes them a valued buy here.
Besides bangles and pearls, what dominates the walk down the street leading to Charminar is an array of little shops selling attar. Abdul Gaffar, who owns Royal Perfumes Centre informs, “These fragrances distilled from herbs and flowers have been symbolic of Hyderabadi heritage since the era of the nawabs and they continue to entice shoppers.”
Street Food at its Best
Hyderabad and biriyani are synonymous and the spicy rice and meat preparation needs no introduction. The area around the Charminar abounds in eateries where you can indulge in this dish but Shadab Hotel is the pick of the lot. And while you are there, don’t miss out on the kababs. End your meal on a sweet note with the Qubani ka Meetha. Also, treat yourself to some Ajneer or Green Pista ice cream at Sultan Bin Ibrahim Masqati near Malwala Palace. Also, don’t forget to have a cup of Irani chai and some Osmania biscuits at a local café on the street corner.
Beyond the multiplexes and malls, the real Hyderabad lies in the old city where the essence of the Nizami culture still lingers. The cultural wealth, the rich tradition, the sweetness of a unique dialect and abundance of history, you can soak it all in on your promenade down the Charminar.
