Spread over 4000 sq km in Karnataka’s southwest is one of the state’s most picturesque districts and home to the Kodavas: the coffee town of Coorg. 

Kannada films like Mungaru Male have shaped my image of Coorg – a lush green paradise that is one of India’s most breathtaking monsoon travel destinations. Just the kind of setting you need to find to reignite romance. It was not romance that brought us to Coorg; just the undying love for coffee.

Coorg is the anglicised version of Kodagu and the Kodavas who are very proud of their ‘Kshatriya’ roots have made the best of the region’s fertile lands. There is no dearth of accommodation options in Coorg. There are luxury hotels like Orange County and the all-new Vivanta by the Taj at one end of the spectrum and well-managed ‘home stay’ options at the other end. But we opted to stay within the confines of a coffee estate to experience the true ‘flavour’ of Coorg.

Reminiscence of the Raj

Plantation Trails owned by Tata Coffee has painstakingly restored seven historic bungalows located within its large estates in Coorg. Once retreats for British estate managers, these luxurious bungalows have now been converted into well-appointed accommodation options. As we checked into the Cottabetta plantation bungalow ensconced in the Polibetta coffee estate we could almost visualise life here in the times of the Raj. Restoring a 130 year old residence can be a tricky job and this is where Plantation Trails triumphs making subtle changes without sacrificing the charm of another era. From four-poster beds to fireplaces there are enough wow elements to keep you engaged. An elaborate lunch greeted me on arrival and there is nothing more comforting than a home-style meal after a gruelling five and a half hour road trip from Bangalore.

Teeing Off

Coorg has three splendid courses and the Tata Coffee Course is just 5 minutes away from the bungalow. It is a well-maintained nine-hole course and despite the deficient monsoons, the greens wear a verdant sheen. The undulations of hill station courses pose their share of challenges but the nip in the air more than compensates.

Gastric Delights

Everything about this once landlocked region is unique and nothing is more unique than Coorgi cuisine. There was once a time when hunting and gaming were a way of life; there may be curbs on hunting now but thankfully most of the signature Coorg dishes have survived. The Pandi (pork) curry is probably the most emblematic of them all and the Plantation trails version is as authentic as they come. Other dishes like the stir fried raw jackfruit and the tender bamboo shoot curry (only in season) are equally scrumptious. The Coorgis are big rice eaters and their puttus (steamed rice dishes) like the kadamputtu (ball shaped) and the nooputu (threaded) make the perfect accompaniments to their zesty curries. It is all part of the quintessential Coorg ‘kadi (food) and kudi’ (drink) experience.

Avian Haven

Coorg is a bird lover’s paradise and is home to a staggering 300 types of birds. When you consider that there are a total of 1300 different types of birds in the entire subcontinent that number assumes more significance. The dawn saw us, a motley group of tourists, set off on an avian trail. We did not have to leave the vast expanses of the Cotabetta estate in our quest to spot all those early birds and in a little under an hour we had spotted about 20 different exotic birds including the spunky ‘racket tailed Drongo’ that can mimic other birds’ voices. It is one of those times when you cannot choose between your binoculars and your favourite camera lens.

Pachyderm Paradise

As we walked through the estate in the morning haze there was enough evidence to suggest that elephant herds had traversed the same paths. Elephant sightings are not uncommon at these estates. Thankfully the first elephants I spotted in Coorg were later that same morning at the Dubare Elephant Camp that is about 25 km from the estate. The camp that is co-managed by Karnataka’s Jungle Lodges is on the banks of the River Cauvery and is the perfect setting to interact with these majestic creatures. Whether you want to admire them from afar or feed them or take a swaying ride on one the elephants it is a fun experience. But Dubare’s best experience is for those who are willing to get their feet wet, stand in knee deep water from where you can actually bathe the elephants.

Spiritual Serenity

Just 30 minutes from Dubare and just outside Kushal Nagara town is one of India’s largest Tibetan settlements. The Namdroling monastery is located there and also the stunning Golden temple where a 60 feet tall gold-plated Buddha occupies centre stage. The imposing statue is one of three large statues and located in a gigantic yet serene hall. The outer fringes of the temple have small gift shops with Tibetan and Feng Shui souvenirs. The next stop was the district’s main town Madikeri (formerly Mercara) that is also the halfway point to Talacauvery where the river Cauvery originates and close to Abbey Falls, another scenic spot. It is a lovely experience to embrace Nature at her purest in these picturesque and spiritual sites.

Charismatic Cuppa

Plantation Trails offers panoramic vistas of the surrounding highlands. Relaxing on the lounge chair in the cottage I soaked in the stunning views of the hills. An invigorating cup of the finest Coorg filter coffee is enough to complete the incomparable experience.

Coorg might be a hill getaway or a wildlife hub or a foodie’s fantasy but above all it is coffee country; this is after all India’s highest coffee producing region and Coorg coffee is world famous. The last item on the itinerary was also the most fascinating – a drive through a coffee plantation and a quick show and tell on the bean to cup process.

A couple of days are certainly not enough to explore Coorg’s myriad experiences but enough to whet one’s appetite for more on your next visit. Pay a visit to this valley town and travel back in time. Get reacquainted with an era when life stood still to let you enjoy the little moments, when the birds tweeted melodiously, the trees swayed rhythmically and pace was just a word in the dictionary.

 

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